I went to a restaurant on my own one of the days I was in Rome, I’d spent the entire day alone because the person I was visiting had to go to uni that day, so it was a fitting way to end the day. I didn’t really plan it, I was in my hotel resting after walking for miles and miles back and forth across the city and I began to get hungry. When I left my hotel I was still undecided. My main plan was to go to the big train station nearby, and just find a McDonald’s or some other fast food place. On my left as I closed the front door behind me however, I spotted the restaurant that is situated right next to the hotel, and on a whim I just decided to go for it.
I’ve been reading Fernando Pessoa’s the Book of Disquiet (Richard Zenith translation) lately, and early on there’s a passage where Bernardo Soares – the fictional “heteronym” whose perspective the book is written from – talks about eating at a restaurant after work every night alone. He talks about how he sees another man also doing the same evening after evening, and how they eventually develop a slight kinship or mutual respect for one another despite never really having more than one brief conversation. I saw the restaurant, and thought that if this man who I already feel a similar kinship as those two did for can comfortably eat alone, then so should I be able to.
Whenever people like myself express slight fear or concern about doing things alone; worrying that people will stare, think we’re pathetic or pitiful, and so on; we are told – gaslighted – that we’re worrying over nothing, that no one cares. It’s a lie, of course it’s a lie, in the 21st century more so than ever it’s a lie. It didn’t help that I was seated right in the centre of the room, I was thinking I’d find a nice table near the corner, but wherever I was I know I would have received the same judging stares. The same looks of first curiosity, then suspicion, and finally contempt. It was a lot less unpleasant when it was happening than it has been in my mind all the times I’ve considered the idea of doing stuff alone over the years, but don’t for a second let any normalfag tell you that it doesn’t happen at all. You will be judged.
I feel I’m giving the wrong impression though, the place was nice and the food was good. I had some gnocchi with a pesto sauce that had some soft cheese stirred in with it, giving it a kind of stretchy/ stringy consistency. I don’t know if it was a particularly “authentic” dish, I was told the day after that gnocchi is something you usually have with a more meaty sauce, that it’s a little strange to have it with pesto. I liked it though, it tasted pretty good. I had a desert as well, a big chocolate truffle thing with some ice cream. It was a pleasant experience for the most part, though there was a slight unease the entire time. I’m glad I went, I’ve always had this fear of doing things alone and the whole day felt like me overcoming that to some extent, this restaurant visit was where those feelings of being a loser or that everyone is either laughing at or embarrassed for me were most intense.
I started the morning in a very similar way, after leaving my hotel around 10 o’clock I decided to walk in a direction I hadn’t yet gone starting at my hotel entrance until I found somewhere to get breakfast. After about 20 minutes I found a place, a small but busy café that was down some stairs in an alley just off to the right of a main road. I had looped back around on myself at this point I think, there were very few major roads in central Rome unlike the city I live in, instead most of the day was spent walking through smaller side streets and alleys like where this café I had breakfast at was located. Like shown in the header image, left is actually a photo taken from the front door of my hotel – so if you’re able to find where I took that photo, and you turn around, you’ll be able to visit the restaurant I was just talking about – and the right one is just an unnamed alleyway I thought looked pretty.
The café was really nice, I went in and tried to order in Italian but the woman behind the counter could tell I was struggling and so spoke to me in English, and pretty good English as well. She was really helpful, trying to explain various different coffee types, giving her suggestion for the best pastry to have with it, taking me to my table. Part of me felt a little patronised, that I was being treated like a child, but that is the effect I tend to have on people. Forever doted on, it’s preferable to being treated with disdain of course but being held as a perpetual child isn’t ideal. Everyone always thinks I need help, that they need to take care of me, I don’t know how to change that. She took me to a nice seat by the window, where I stayed for a while deciding what to do with the day.
I had this big map given to me by the hotel, which had all the major city landmarks made clear, and so seeing roughly where I was on the map at that café, I decided I would walk in the general direction of the Castel Sant’Angelo (formerly Hadrian’s Mausoleum) and cross the river there, then walk along the river for a while before crossing back later that afternoon or early evening after finding somewhere to get a late lunch. I went to the counter and paid, and headed back out onto the street. I believe instead of going back up onto the busier main road, I took a right and followed along the smaller walkway where the café was.
I remember I walked for what seemed like a really long time; down more alleyways and through side roads, past various churches and other interesting and beautiful buildings, down a long series of very narrow cobbled streets lined with various clothing and jewellery shops, through a big open marketplace filled with families and old women wandering between stalls, then down through an area with quite a few restaurants, finally ending up on a long stretch of road mostly lined with apartment buildings; looping back on myself multiple times over but trying to stick to the same general direction. After said empty stretch of street I walked out into what I thought was going to be another of the many Piazzas that dot the city, and instead was greeted with pic related.

It was a lot more impressive in person, the pillars at the front are thicker than old oak trees. Walking through them to see the inside, I was transported back to imperial Rome for a brief moment. The inside by the way was an equally spectacular sight, though I’m afraid I didn’t get any photos, the ancient poured concrete dome (a technology that was lost for over a thousand years) with it’s perfect circle in the centre to let the light in is really something to behold. The rich patterned marble that covered the whole floor, the perfect squares lining the interior of the dome, the sculptures in their little alcoves. All the major churches and cathedrals and places of worship in Rome have a very similar style, but it never loses it’s majesty even after you see it time and time again.
I’m glad I saw it, because I hadn’t planned to that day and wasn’t sure if I’d have time to fit it in on any of the days following, turning that corner and stumbling across it like that was quite pleasant. So after going inside, I came back out and thought I should look for a certain sandwich shop which an anon from a thread on /trv/ I saw a month before the trip said I could find very near to the Pantheon that was really good. I couldn’t find it though, I did a lap of the entire building and then came back around to façade at the front without seeing it. So I continued on in the direction I had been going, towards the river. Along the way I passed by a small art gallery, and decided to take a photo of one of the pieces I saw on display that I liked. Can you ever guess why?

So after another half hour or so of wandering I finally found myself walking up along a street with the building I had originally been heading towards right in front of me. The famous bridge in front with the statues lining the railings that is in many of the photos of the Castel Sant’Angelo was right ahead, on the other side of a road I had to cross. It was both a fair bit smaller than I expected, and much busier. I didn’t take a photo myself because there were so many people crowding around the front of the bridge, and as soon as I began to cross I was met by another one of the African scammers who seem to plague the city. Luckily a family were also trying to cross and they walked inbetween us before he could get to me and try to fasten one of those stupid bracelets on my wrist again, and so I moved on ahead.
The castle, or fort, or I guess just museum now, was also smaller than I expected. It’s going to sound silly, but I assumed it would be much larger. The Pantheon I had found larger than expected, but with this place I had the opposite experience. I remember climbing all over it a decade ago, or longer actually, in Assassin’s Creed 2 (a videogame) and it seeming huge. Almost as tall as the Colosseum. Yet in reality it was quite a bit smaller. I thought about going inside, but I decided it wasn’t worth paying as I’d probably get bored rather quickly on my own in there. I stood looking at it for a while from the bridge, and then not sure what to do next I just decided to take a left and follow the river. After a few minutes I came to another road, crossed over, and in front of me was this view.

St Peter’s Basilica, at the end of another short road. I thought perhaps I should go in a different direction, as the plan for Friday was to go to the Vatican with the people I was visiting, but to turn away without at least seeing the place that was right ahead of me was too difficult. To keep finding these world famous landmarks – and world famous for good reason, they really are something to behold – without even really trying but instead just by wandering around, it really does begin to feel like you’re wandering around one big open air museum. That’s what one of my co-workers said, he’s from Italy and when I mentioned I was going to Rome that’s how he described it. The historical centre anyway, the area within what remains of the Aurelian walls, which I saw a portion of on a different day near the Pyramid of Cestius.
The city I live in has it’s share of monuments and old churches, the cathedral of course, old fashioned houses, and even a couple of cobbled streets preserved; but it is nothing like this. It has been thoroughly modernised, almost every single street has tarmac, and a lot of the older buildings have been demolished to make space for more modern (or post-modern I suppose) structures of glass and steel. You couldn’t have a day like the one I’m trying to share now, where you feel like if only for the modern dress of the people surrounding you, you could be walking around the city as it existed two or three hundred years ago. Before industry, cars and buses, the reinvention of concrete.
I saw a lot of motor scooters to be fair, very handy for zipping around the narrow streets, but almost no cars that entire day. Of course I did see some, there are still major roads which run through the city like veins and arteries. There’s this one major road built during the fascist regime which is particularly hard to miss, the bronze statue of Augustus I mentioned in a previous post is on the side of this road. It is very possible however, to navigate the city with minimal contact with such roads. At one point I went almost an hour without seeing a moving car, just the occasional one parked somewhere, between the café and finding the Pantheon. At least I don’t remember seeing any, but I do have a tendency to beautify a memory so maybe the city isn’t as free of vehicles as I’m remembering.
Walking up to the main square I saw another scammer, this one was already occupied. Working his magic on another tourist, I hung back to observe the routine. I almost thought that maybe I should say something, the tourist was an older gentleman and I didn’t like the thought that he may be scammed out of quite a bit of money. I took a photo of the two of them to show my friend, this whole racket these people are running is funny to me, and then continued to watch the exact same steps play out as they had when I was getting home on Tuesday evening. The older man was smarter than I gave him credit for though, and after a moment he just walked off with the bracelet, without paying anything. The scammer couldn’t do much, there were crowds of people all around.

He looked over to me, ah another victim he thought, but I quickly stood up and headed into the square proper ignoring his calls. In the centre is this big Egyptian obelisk, surrounded by a ring of stone bollards, which are taller than they look in the picture. These obelisks are all over the city, in the various Piazzas you can find while walking around. I think they’re all really cool, the legacy of Rome’s past as a great conquering power. I know that many of them are not actually originals, but some are and when you see one you can’t help but imagine the legions hauling them back from some pillaged city in Egypt or North Africa after a siege.
I climbed up on one of the bollards, and sat there for a good while. It’s from there that I took the picture above this paragraph. I watched the people around me for a while, and just enjoyed being surrounded by it all. The square – more of a circle, but you know what I mean – is ringed almost by these two long exterior hallways lined with columns that spread out from the church towards you like arms trying to pull you in to an embrace. On both sides just in front of these, are two fountains, pic below. After some time taking the view in, I headed over to the one on the left.

As I was trying to get a good photo of the fountain, not sure if I succeeded or not, a man walked by and somehow I caught his attention. He was fairly old, maybe in his late 60s or early 70s, and from England like me. At least that’s what he said, from Bournemouth specifically, though he seemed to me to have a slight German accent. He asked where I was from, and I said where and asked him the same. We chatted for a while, he told me he visits Rome often now that he’s retired. Being a catholic and having friends there to stay with apparently. His daughter-in-law is or was quite ill, he told me, and so he had decided to come here to say a prayer for her.
He asked me why I was visiting, was I studying or what plans I had in life, the usual kinds of questions people my age receive from older more kindly strangers. I told him I was visiting a friend, but had taken the day to enjoy the city alone, and that I was still trying to decide what I want to do. At one point a homeless gypsy woman came past and held up a box of coins, croaking something unintelligible. I gave her a few cents, and so did Bournemouth, and she wandered off muttering something to herself. We chatted for a while longer, and then he told me he was going to go ahead into the Vatican proper to find a toilet and say his prayer.
I wandered around for a little while longer, and unsure what to do with myself. I took some more photos, none of them were very good, and just enjoyed the sun. It must have been about midday at this point, and the sun was beating down. Notice in all of the photos how blue the sky is, I haven’t seen it like that once since getting home. It’ll be summer before I see that again, a sky completely clear of clouds. So warm as well, not uncomfortably hot but just right. I could comfortably walk around without even needing to wear my jumper, I didn’t even have my jacket with me that day but left it behind in my hotel room. I was thinking about what to do, when I saw Bournemouth again walking back.
He spotted me as well, and came back over to chat some more. He said he couldn’t find a toilet, and was thinking of getting some lunch if I wanted to come along. So I said yes, and he said he knew a nice little sandwich shop. If you want to find it, with your back to St Peter’s head leftward instead of going straight down the road I originally walked up to get there. Then on that path take a left again somewhere onto a reasonably wide (for Rome) street lined mostly with clothing shops and small places to eat. The place we went to was very tiny indeed, the area behind the counter was larger than the seating area. Essentially just a small wall table with stalls along to sit at. Inside there were only two men in suits chatting to one another, both speaking Italian though one had a clear British accent, and the place still felt full.
I had a coffee (unusual for me) and a panini with rocket, mozzarella and a few big slices of tomato. We continued the conversation about my plans for the future, the man told me about his children and how they had gone travelling around when they were younger and that helped them decide what they wanted to do. One had gone on to become a dentist, I can’t recall what he said the other went on to do. I expressed some doubt about the likelihood of me having a similar experience, but I never quite forgot the exchange and it has stayed on my mind since. I will perhaps talk about this in another post, we’ll see.
I told him what I said here two entries ago, about how finding someone from England was so comforting, like finding an oasis in the desert. I also said that I could never imagine just hanging out and having lunch with a total stranger back home, yet out here I felt an immediate kinship with him. He said he understood exactly what I meant, and if he were my age he would likely understand far more so, being old and familiar with the city and language after many visits unlike myself. Bournemouth also told me that he was actually born in Norway, but had moved to England while still young, which explained the slight accent.
The man who ran the shop and served us was also really friendly, joining in to chat a few times. When it came time to leave I left him a couple euros extra as a tip, and headed out with Bournemouth. When we got out we decided to head our separate ways, he gave me a hug and wished me the best of luck with everything, and I said the same. The whole encounter reminds me of something I read from an interview with Hidetaka Miyazaki (the mind behind Demon’s Souls, Dark Souls, and Bloodborne) talking about the PvP system in those games. For anyone who hasn’t played them, essentially when you want to play online with someone you enter the world of someone else as either an opponent or an aid. The encounter is random, you can’t really communicate through voice chat but only through the in-game gestures and your actions.
He said he got the idea from an experience one evening when his car broke down in traffic. A man in another car got out to help him, waited with him keeping him company until someone could come to fix his car, and then left without ever giving a name or anything. An entirely benevolent encounter, with someone he would never meet again. In another life, in another circumstance it’s very possible he could have had a completely negative but equally contained encounter with that man, as he has had with other people in life. This was very much like that for me, I met this really charming man who reminded me of home, we shared stories and a meal together, and now we will never see one another again.
Speaking of that the desire for familiarity – and charming men, though in my story of course there’s no such connotation for you to find – I found myself listening to a lot of music over the holiday that I haven’t listened to for a long while. Kasabian, a band which I strongly associate with a certain very happy time of my life, and The Smiths. Now The Smiths I actually associate with a rather unpleasant period of time, but I found great comfort in the band’s music (as well as some of Morrissey’s solo work) during that period and I listened to it so much back then that the band’s whole sound is very familiar to me.
As well as this, both bands also have a distinctly English sound I think, despite sounding entirely different from one another, and during this trip I found myself really searching for that in whatever small way I could find it. A recognisable accent, a cup of tea with milk at a café when I could get it, and yes in the music I listened to. Most days of course I was with company so I didn’t listen to a lot of music over the holiday, but on Thursday whenever I was wandering from place to place I was playing something. So those two bands really provided the soundtrack to this day I’m describing here.
So after the lunch I began walking in the general direction of the river again, and came to it just in front of the Castel Sant’Angelo. That is, if you are facing it from the bridge I would be just on the left. Back where I started, and so this time I followed the river in the other direction. Yet another scammer came up to me, and I don’t know why (perhaps I was in a good mood because of the lunch) I decided to humour him. I had no intention of paying him a single cent, but it was funny how religiously they all stuck to the same routine. He asked me if I was English, I can only guess that they always ask this first because they speak English better than other languages common among tourists, because I do not look particularly British or English myself. I have curly brown hair, and brown eyes, in fact I don’t think I looked too foreign in Rome. Though I was generally a little lighter skinned and taller than most locals.
He followed the pattern as they all do, pulled out a bracelet and was going to tie it around my wrist but I grabbed it before he could asking if I could just look at it first. He was somewhat taken aback I think, like this messed with the routine and his programming, so I examined it for a second and handed it back to him. He insisted it was a gift, and then grabbed my other hand as if to shake goodbye but a little aggressively and looked me dead in the eyes before repeating again “is a gift brother”. “Ok” I said, and turned to walk away, he followed along with the same line as always, “a donation my man, my family very poor, you have any euro?”. “I don’t have any euros” I said, as matter of fact as I could deliver it, and I walked off, keeping hold of the bracelet. Another one for my collection.

I followed the river for some time, past a couple of nice looking cafés and lots of very dry looking trees without leaves, until I came to another bridge which took me back across to the main side. I say the main side, the side that my hotel and most of the major landmarks are on. There was a whole area of the city on the far side that I wanted to visit at some point, called Trastevere, which I heard from an anon on /trv/ is filled with loads of fantastic looking old medieval buildings as well as lots of great places to eat and drink, but we never ended up actually going there. There’s always next time, maybe if I go back I’ll find a hotel there instead as I was recommended to stay either there or where I did. Back on the original side of the river I started from, I took a quick photo of the Tiber.

This might be getting boring to read, maybe I’m sounding like I’m repeating myself, but after this I walked some more. Shocking surprise I know. I walked for quite a while, again just listening to music and enjoying the old avenues and small streets. The city is so much more colourful than any British or at the very least any English city, there’s a town I visited in Wales called Tenby a few years ago with my dad which was very colourful, but not like this. With the same soundtrack I’ve already mentioned, I kept walking without really knowing where I was going for probably another half an hour or longer until I came out into a much wider open space with this huge set of old brown stone stairs ahead of me.

To the left was the famous white marble monument to the unnamed soldier used in the header image for my first post about this trip, I had come full circle. I almost thought about returning to my hotel, a short walk away, but I found myself drawn to that huge staircase like a moth to a flame. I say this so often, probably because I’m not great at taking photos, but the picture here really doesn’t show how grand and palatial this staircase was in person. It really felt like something out of an old and very different time, ancient, part of a city designed for people who moved and lived and operated entirely differently than modern man. A huge set of stairs – the image doesn’t show it as I’ve said, but from the top you can see quite a lot of the city – a path to bring man closer to the old gods of the city.
There’s a church at the top of course, so going up the stairs now you only head towards the one god. I’m sure that once this was a pagan temple or something like that, at least the site at the top (I found out a little later these stairs were built into the side of the Capitoline hill) must have been. I should look it up, I’m sure it’s an incredibly famous named church and I seem like a brainlet hypothesising when I could just read the Wikipedia article. The church was of course incredibly ornate and filled with delicate symbolism and decoration everywhere you looked. Every detail, every square inch of the interior deliberate, layered with meaning. I took a few photos, here’s one of them.

After that I came back outside and sat at the top of the stairs to rest my legs. I had walked for hours at this point. The sun was beating down, though it was past midday and beginning to lower. If I had to guess, I’d say it was maybe getting on for three in the afternoon at this point. I wasn’t the only one sitting on the stairs, several people all the way along from the top where I was right down to the bottom few steps. People reading, groups chatting, one woman just seemed to be lying there with her head resting on the step above sunbathing. It was one of my favourite spots in the whole city, maybe my very favourite. I was thinking I would have to go back to my hotel after this, I wasn’t sure where else I could go but I was not in the mood to go on another long walk to another distant area of the city. So I stayed there, trying to make the moment last as long as possible.

I decided after a while to go back up to the platform in front of the church before leaving, and standing there I noticed that down and to the left was a open and also raised area with a bronze statue of a man on a horse. Pleased that I had found something else to spend time doing, I went down the stairs and up into that courtyard. Getting closer I realised it was the Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius – or more accurately, a replica, the real one being held in a museum also on the hill that I didn’t feel like paying to visit – which was how I realised that this was the Capitoline Hill.
If it’s not clear already, my knowledge of the geography of the city is pretty bad. I got around though, after admiring the statue and taking the photo above, I headed past the statue to the right and through the pathway down the other side. Which took me to an overlook of the Forums that we had walked around the first full day of my visit, but from an angle I hadn’t yet seen them. I tried to take some photos, but there were loads of Chinese tourists crowding around near the railings with selfie sticks and similar devices which made it pretty hard to get a good one. This is the best of them, the only one I’ve held onto. On the right you’ll notice the raised platform and gardens from the other post I wrote about this trip, and where I also took some photos from.

So I walked down a rocky path, which led me to a carpark that I followed, forcing me back on myself a little, in the direction of all the old ruins. There’s no access unless you have a ticket though, and I’d already been inside anyway, so I followed along and around the road which went along the gates in a curve until I eventually I found myself back on a normal street. This was after maybe ten minutes or slightly longer. I then walked along this road for a while, thinking that eventually it would surely curve again to the left and bring me back to the Colosseum from I could easily find my way back to the hotel. So on I went, and after a short while I noticed a small narrow park to my right. I crossed the road, and found a place to sit on one the stone wall surrounding it.
It was a strange park I thought, stretching quite some distance to my left and right, but with not much of a width. If I walked maybe the length of two swimming pools I’d reach the other side, though it wasn’t a straight path to get there. There seemed to be two gravel paths along each side’s wall, which both slope down symmetrically into a grassy central area. It just seemed like a weird design to me, but the weather was nice and I was glad to have found a nice park so I decided to stay a while. Even though it was quite unlike any park I know here at home, because I have been spending a lot of time in parks recently I found that same feeling of familiarity there.

So I carried on in the general direction I had been going, but through the park, and as I reached the end I saw there was some ruins. I sign told me that this park existed was once the Circus Maximus, the iconic chariot racing stadium of ancient Rome. If you’ve ever seen Ben Hur (the one from 1959 with Charlton Heston) you’ll know it well. It was quite an interesting moment when I found out, I really began to see that everywhere I walked in this city I was touching history. Again I had stumbled upon another major landmark without even intending it as well, though this was to be the last that day. After this I headed back up to the left and in the direction of the Colosseum.
This time, even though I had seen it from multiple angles and at different times of the day, I yet again found myself seeing it in a way I hadn’t before. There was a small hill on my right as I walked towards it, the Arch of Constantine being straight ahead of me. Up on the hill were of course many tourists all taking photos, but not so much that it was completely crowded and so I decided to take another photo as well. I headed up there, and ended up having another, this time much more brief, encounter with a stranger. I was standing up on this rock trying to get a good photo (pic below), when a small middle aged Chinese woman came up to me and tried to get my attention.

“Hey, you tall. Take photo me?”. It wasn’t the first time I had been asked to take a photo this trip, and it happens from time to time near where I live because the stadium brings in tourists, so I understood what she meant and agreed. I dropped down, and watched as she tried to climb up onto the rock to pose for a picture. I took the photos, she jumped back down and offered to take a photo for me, but I said it was ok, and then she thanked me with a slight bow in that typical East-Asian way and disappeared somewhere. I also got down from the hill, walked around the Colosseum until I got to the same side as my hotel, and decided to take one last photos from a small footbridge before heading back there.

As you can see, the sun was a little lower in the sky and it was not long before it would begin to set. I headed back, past the statue of Augustus to say hi, to where I had my first encounter with a scammer two nights previous and had got very lost. This time, I knew exactly how to get back from there. It’s a really enjoyable feeling, when you start to get to know a city and figure out how to navigate it. Sure it was only a ten minute walk, but I think now that if I were to return to the city I could find my way around much more easily. I’ve made a lot of videogame analogies in this post for someone who almost never plays them anymore, but here’s one more. Like in any open world game, after enough hours of exploration you just get a feel for the map.
Funnily enough, it’s doesn’t work too differently in real life. Not only do you learn about the specific area you’re staying in pretty quickly, that isn’t surprising, but from that you begin to understand how the city is structured more generally and how to get around it. You start to understand, in a way that you can’t explicitly articulate, the pattern behind where things are. It’s a really satisfying feeling, it does make you feel more confident, that initial feeling of being completely out of my depth that I had the first couple of nights really dissipated after Thursday. For several reasons, one of them being this understanding of the city, of the very buildings and roads, that I started feel after that day. Of course it still felt very foreign to me, I’d need to live there for some time to truly understand it in the same way I understand my own city, but on Thursday I realised that I could.





